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Sunday, 22 April 2012

Magnific Rock, Popoyo, Nicaragua

I found myself as so often happens, walking along the beach as the sun set and the surfers were trying to catch the last wave, and smiling because thats a great feeling, when the water's warm and glassy, and the sun has become a big orange glob on the horizon. I walked from the amazing view of Magnific rock (where i stayed for a few days) to the small 'village' of Guascate, which is a dirt street on the beach with a few hostels and restaurants, and where every place serves lovely locally caught lobster (It's about 200-250 cordobas or $8-11)
Just as 'that' moment ends ;o)

You have to swim across a river to get there. Be careful at high tide, and cross at the beach, where its wide and (relatively) shallow. I ruined my book by falling into a deep patch further up.

The village there seems to have a lot more going on (relatively speaking) than the isolated Magnific Rock, which will blow you away for the first day or two with its 180 degree views along both long empty beautiful beaches, with lovely (expensive) food and a gringo vibe, but more importantly, one of the best breaks for beginners/intermediate surfers in the world - nice big slow waves, that you can use a longboard on and that wont' kill you - more experienced surfers go to 'popoyo' beside the village, so i'd let that make your location decision rather than anything else.

It's a bit kind of bare though, I wouldn't want to stay for a longer time.

Strange Restaurant/Hotel in Guascate

Magnific Rock, on its...Magnific Rock.

I feel there's almost no point in me saying anything about the village right now, as by the time you get there it'll have probably (sadly) been developed to hell and full of high rises. That being said, right now its beautiful and laid back, with a few low key restaurants and $8 a night hotels, and as is the case all across Nicaragua, a long beautiful and totally empty beach.

I walked back along the beach last night to Magnific Rock, in the pitch black, with only the sound of the waves and the big fat wisps of the milky way to guide me, I really wonder at times like this, has the world always been so beautiful and I never noticed before or is it just Nicaragua? I'd say that a walk like this every night can cure the most hardcore atheist.

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