So after my brother ditched me in Hamburg, I decided to
check the city a bit. Luckily I’ve a friend here who introduced me to the place
and her friends, and Hamburgs friendly heart took me in and got me an Astra Beer.
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Its all about the 'Wanderlust' - Yes, this is the print thats been up in my hallway for the last 15 years, and i finally found its in Hamburgs Kunsthalle |
I’d say cities are either one thing or another – either
they’re all about knowing where to go (like London, New York, Tokyo) or you can
just turn up and you’ll probably have a great night anyway…(like Las Vegas or
Tallinn)
Hamburg definitely seems a ‘know where to go’ city,
especially if, like me, your German is limited to ‘Achtung Himmel’ and ‘Die
Englander Pig’ (Yes, I read war comics as a child)
But if you have a local, then suddenly you see that here’s a
free rock concert here, a place where you can get shots for 50 cents there….
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'Wreck in a Sea of Ice' - another KDF classic in the Kunsthalle, Hamburg |
In the daytime, there are a few interesting things to do.
Kunsthalle, the main art gallery is a whole spiritual home for, as it happens,
my favourite kind of people, the 19th century German Romantics,
headed by the main man himself, Kaspar David Fredreich. Strangely enough, my
pretty much favourite all time painting was sitting there – ‘Wanderer above the
Sea of Fog’ or just known as ‘The Wanderer’.
You know these strange moments where you look for something for years
and suddenly, you turn the corner and there it is!
The shopping area is around there too, and a good (and
popular) running/dog walking path around the main lake. At the end of the shopping street, there is a
kind of cute touristy area, centred around the ‘Rathaus’ (it’s the town hall,
rather than a house full of rats) and a
very lovely white colonnade going out to the lake (which makes you think…ah
wait a minute, yes Hamburg is by the sea after all…
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On the right is a WW1 memorial, but this is a lovely part of town across from the Rathaus. |
Contrary to what they teach in American Schools, Hamburg is
not by the sea. Just so you know. Also, dear friends in USA. It’s not the
capital, Iranians are not Arabs, and going to Cancun does not count as
‘travelling abroad’.
St Georg is a kind of more laid-back nightlife area. There’s
a street full of quite average Italian restaurants and some bars, and lots of
middle aged gay guys walking around with bags of dry-cleaning. I understand from a certain friend that if
its toothless drug addicted prostitutes you’re after, you can find them a few
streets south of there.
Talking of which, the guys/girls showed me around the famous ‘Reeberbahn’
in ST Pauli, at the weekend. They say its ‘the main red light area.’ – I mean
what kind of city of 2m people has even more than one??? But it seems to me
that prostitution is the main occupation in this port city – when I went out to
Scheezel, there were even camper van brothels lining the laybyes in the posh
suburbs (‘for the truck drivers’ I’m sure)
But now Reeperbahn and the surrounding streets have pretty
much become the centre of the cities nightlife – you could barely move on
Saturday night when we went out. One street has rock bars, one has hip hop, one
has football bars and skinheads, all mixed between tranny bars, casinos, and 12
storey brothels, mixing up into a cacophony of weird things to gawk at (if
you’re a tourist like me at least) There
is a street that is ‘men only’ except for the Amsterdam style ‘red light’ windows. Actually it looked pretty
dull if you ask me. There was a sad looking bar in the back which I was told is
on some kind of S&M street. The guys in there looked more M&S though
really.
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This bar had an old lady poledancing |
The general neighbourhood has an interesting history though.
St Pauli even has its own football team with famously ‘left wing’ supporters,
to allegedly counter the other ‘right wing’ football fans. Personally I think
its all a lot of rubbish- In Germany, left wing people all seem like
anarchist/libertarians to me, and right wing people act like socialists. Maybe
we need to give them some books on politics so they can actually make some
logical opinions for once.
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Here's the site of the 'Star Club' (since burnt down) where the Beatles alledgedly got their first break (There are no bands whatsover from Hamburg, it seems) |
However, I digress….
If you seek an altogether more wholesome drunken night out,
a new ‘shoreditchy’ type area has sprung up around the ‘left wing’ squats in an
area quite nearby and also near the Uni, called ‘Sternchanze’ (translate as
Star-ski jump or something similar) - there’s an S Bahn takes you straight
there, and it’s full of cheapish food and drink places, and had a great
atmosphere when I was there. Unlike the Reeperbahn, the girls tend not to be
prostitutes, which is a real plus.
The ‘Mexicana’ drink, which is used all over Hamburg, is a
spicy tomato soup shot which is sold for about 50c-1 Euro and actually (unlike
the Estonian version, Mili Malikas) tastes quite nice. This and ‘Vodka Ahoy’ is my excuse for making
lots of new friends at the weekend - thanks to you guys in Hamburg for helping making this
accidental holiday a good one!
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A lot of the city was bombed, so there is a lot of concrete. I have no idea what is going on in this picture though. |